By Tali Minor
You’ve probably spent some good scrolling time reviewing Chloé’s A/W collection—a rich tapestry of cozy, bohemian, leather and knit-heavy looks—which was shown in Paris last week. Today, as we celebrate International Women’s Day, we invite you to take a deeper dive into the making of this collection, and the formidable creative talent behind it—Gabriela Hearst.
The A/W collection was presented on what would have been the 100th birthday of Chloé founder Gaby Aghion, a thoughtful nod to a designer who reinterpreted “femininity” in a way that has remained at the house’s core. Hearst, a New York-based Uruguayan designer whose eponymous line has a well-documented cult following, used her new platform at Chloé to send out many a message. First and foremost, sustainability isn’t something to attain in five years—it’s happening right now, noting that a shift to lower-impact raw materials made this collection four times more sustainable compared to last year.
And let’s talk about the clothes: Daywear spans from trench coats and tailored jackets that tie at the side to dresses in leather and wool gauze, while a strong knitwear category is defined by ultra-soft, recycled cashmeres and multi-color stripes that naturally nod to Hearst’s Uruguayan roots. There’s also a nod to this DNA through fringed and striped dresses and the ‘puffcho,’ an innovative poncho integrated with a puffer.
And what would Chloé be without its scalloped edge? Here, it appears as top-stitching on georgette blouses; in petals of leather or denim patchwork; as a quilting technique and along the cuffs of knitwear. Hearst, whose Nina bag has a perennial waitlist, introduces the Juana bag in scalloped quilting and patchwork leather, as well as handknitted leather totes embellished with a recycled wooden C knitted into the handle. She’s also re-issued the Edith bag (which was the first luxury bag the designer owned) in recycled cashmere or with recycled jacquard and is offered as a mini version, a tote and a doctor’s bag.
Though the carbon footprint of this collection may be tiny, it’s clear Gabriela Hearst has filled some very big shoes.
Swipe through to see more of our favorite runway looks.