From left to right: Menswear Fall/Winter 25/26 looks from Dolce & Gabbana, Lanvin, Prada, Brioni, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, and Zegna.
The world spins forever forward.
Our culture’s breakneck speed can be a lot to process. And while the fashion industry is also in a constant state of flux, the just concluded Fall/Winter 2025 menswear shows in Europe seemed to underscore an opposite feeling: of slowness, of comfort, and even, in some ways, of sheltering. With this, the collections felt in many ways like a visual salve.
For example: Cardigans were a trend. The big and thick kind that you throw on to melt into a couch but also maybe stave off a bit of the cold (and Miamians, after this past week, are still shivering after record chills). There was also a sense of loosening the constraints on formal and eveningwear–a play that’s been in motion for bit now, spearheaded by male celebrities taking more “risks” on the red carpet. But this practice has become more mainstream; even in the realm of black tie, people are looking for a little slack.
All in, the feeling amounted to a season with plenty of desirable product. Below, see our BHS Edit of the best of Men’s Fall/Winter 2025.
Brioni Menswear FW 25/26.
Brioni
Brioni is synonymous with Italian finery, but the house’s lead,Norbert Stumpfl, is pushing “lightness” in his excellent clothes. This muted ocean blue double breasted suit, over a matching crewneck sweater, is a perfect example of it; the jacket’s cut is loose, the jumper is simple, the pant leg is almost jogger-esque, tapering at the ankle. If you buy one suit this season, buy this one.
Brunello Cucinelli Menswear FW 25/26.
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli’s approach for Fall looked beyond the sartorial. He cited looking toward “eternal truths” in his collection development. The sound bite, while abstract, feels of the moment in a world where meaning and purpose can sometimes feel fleeting: Cucinelli has a remarkable knack for slightly twisting classic high-end wardrobe staples to forge new forms of timelessness. Like this two-tone Canadian tuxedo, with a wine red vest, for example. The look seems fresh while being entirely familiar, in tandem. And, on top of that, it looks comfortable.
Dolce & Gabbana Menswear FW 25/26.
Dolce & Gabbana
Here’s an example of pretty casual–almost pajama-level casual–eveningwear from Dolce & Gabbana’s Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The higher waist trousers with the generous breaks are one thing, but it’s the silken black shirt with the slightly oversized collar that brings it home. Not for everyone, obviously, but it’s a cool look. Also, in a season that’s (usually) difficult for Miami’s climate, this ‘fit is temperature-friendly.
Lanvin Menswear FW 25/26.
Lanvin
At Lanvin, newly arrived head designer Peter Copping had an excellent debut. He was able to channel the considered, oft jewel-toned color palette of the maison’s former creative director, Alber Elbaz, while giving the collection his own stamp of elegance. These hues, and this slouch (the cropped roomy trousers especially), are a thing of beauty.
Prada Menswear FW 25/26.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s collaboration at Prada continues to impress. Both of these designers are highly cerebral, and both have long effectively distilled the zeitgeist into thoughtful, fashion-forward clothes. For Fall, both suggested that this newest collection was a bit of a response to the times. There were Americanisms (particularly, a Western throughline) and there were heavy duty hoods–in some ways, this was a far more rugged Prada collection than what we’re used to seeing. This coat, with its carpet lapel, strikes the right tone between strong and cocooned.
Ralph Lauren Menswear FW 25/26.
Ralph Lauren
In a press release for Ralph Lauren’s Fall collection, the designer stated: “It is about a world of warmth…” Lauren is renowned for his elevated American wardrobing–he defined it, really–but there was, indeed, a palpable ease about his latest. Italianate and sophisticated, but somewhat informal, too.
Tod’s Menswear FW 25/26.
Tod’s
At Tod’s, fashion designer Matteo Tamburini invoked the spirits of the architects and industrial designers Vico Magistretti and Gio Ponti. Yet the outcome wasn’t as rigid as the latter disciplines might suggest; shapely, yes, but not strict. This lichen green overcoat, foldover bag and flannel were a brilliant blend.
Zegna Menswear FW 25/26.
Zegna
This look from Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori is arguably the coolest of the season–anywhere. A perfect, loose, comfy trouser. A cozy but sharp woolen (and almost rugby-style) jumper. A works-anywhere, all black palette. Sartori, and by extension Zegna, focused largely on craft and material–lambswools and cashmeres and shearlings namely–but channeled the moment, all the same.
