In Review: Spring/Summer 25

By Nick Remsen

The fashion world spins forever forward, and its most recent trip ‘round the sun just finished in Paris with the conclusion of the Spring 2025 shows.

Juxtaposed against the backdrop of a country (and a planet) in various levels of discord, the frivolity of fashion has never felt more prominent. But, then again, it’s important to remember that participating in fashion–buying it, wearing it, following it–is a choice. It’s always going to be there, and, in many ways, it makes for a happy distraction.

So, with that in mind, we picked the brightest and most heartening of these little escapes from the news cycle–the excellent floaty dresses in line with the barely-there trend of the season, or the dresses-under-jackets, another emergent fad. We’re leaning into layering and we’re calling dibs on some excellent color-blocking. And, news-wise, we saw Alessandro Michele’s premier at Valentino, and evolutions from Séan McGirr at Alexander McQueen and Daniel Lee at Burberry. And, we deeply loved Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta. See? Happy distractions!

Bottega Veneta
The best thing about Matthieu Blazy’s most recent outing at Bottega? Its clear homages to Tomas Maier, who was known for his extraordinary, layered, and just plain chic dressmaking skills during his nearly 20-year tenure as creative director for the house. (Maier is much missed among a more nostalgic fashion set.)

Burberry
Daniel Lee is still carving out a groove at Burberry. He’s been focusing on house codes, and this season, we particularly liked this trench-inspired dress. Though he may not have yet garnered the heritage brand the same heat as he did at Bottega Veneta, sparks are most definitely there.

Dolce & Gabbana
A little razzle-dazzle with a retro pinup bustier top from the Italian duo. With this collection, Dolce and Gabbana sought to channel the style and verve of Hollywood’s Golden Age blonde bombshells like Marilyn Monroe and Marlene Dietrich.

Versace
In an Olympic year, a gold medal dress from Donatella Versace. Though actually, the inspiration for Versace’s most recent lineup went back many, many years: to when she showed her Spring 1997 collection, which she described as a time of freedom and happiness.

Loewe
Jonathan Anderson has been at the helm of Loewe for 10 years now (time truly flies). He’s still the industry’s darling, leaning into the idiosyncratic and artful time and time again. Your favorite fashion designer’s favorite fashion designer.

Valentino
Alessandro Michele–formerly of Gucci fame–made his runway debut as the head of Valentino, and much of it was true to his aesthetic of finery and over-the-top whimsy. Where he found of a bit of polish and cleanliness, though, is where his effort felt freshest, such as with this bow-closure blazer.

Prada
Speaking of bows… the demure tie, along with layers and a bit of a new take on schoolgirl uniforming were what had us hooked at Prada. Plus, great and somewhat bold color blocking. With their latest, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons sought to reflect up–and maybe tamper with–the algorithmic world we find ourselves in. How can something be beautiful outside of what we’re force fed through calculations? This was their answer.

Etro
Great styling and equally great color-combos at (the often underrated) Etro. Designer Marco De Vincenzo imbued his most recent collection for the house with a pan-Mediterranean vibe. 

Ferragamo
A Mediterranean-esque strapless gown in a super chic, somewhat uncommon russet color: this is almost like a limewashed version of Ferragamo’s now signature red.

Fendi
This carpet coat with an arcing hem blends bathrobe insouciance with boardroom confidence (or even quirkiness). It’s just the right amount of refined eccentricity from Kim Jones at Fendi.

Gucci
Sabato De Sarno is still finding his footing as creative director at Gucci. On steady ground, though: this silhouette, with its big trench, big trousers, and little tank top.

Ralph Lauren
The ultimate in East End style was found in Ralph Lauren’s newest collection. It was a Hamptons-centric ode to the upscale American aesthetic the designer has cultivated for decades.

Loro Piana
A somewhat unexpected fashion-forward move from Loro Piana this season. In this look, extra-long Bermuda shorts paired with a ⅓ length sleeve stand strong.

Miu Miu
Miu Miu’s preppy polish has gotten more consciously disheveled as of late–and it works. Take Look 58: Well executed layering (hello, belts!), peep-toes and high-socks, and somehow it’s still quite posh.

Chloé
A utility jacket (in a great cobalt hue) plays well against Chemena Kamali’s new boho spirit at Chloé. Kamali is being credited with reviving the trend, and so far, it has had some high publicity staying power–including with new fan Vice President Kamala Harris.

Alexander McQueen
A great, pre-distressed leather bomber at Alexander McQueen by Séan McGirr. Looks even better when paired with something lighter, like diaphanous tulle.

Chanel
Chanel has yet to name a new creative director after the departure of Virginie Viard. But Chanel-isms remain, no matter who is in charge, such as seen in this extra-tweedy set. This season, the house returned to the Grand Palais (which had been closed for renovations) for its runway show–a homecoming years in the making, and one that the fashion crowd was happy to see.

Roberto Cavalli
Loud is always the descriptor when it comes to Roberto Cavalli. Look 58’s crimson tiger stripes and jet-black feathery trims is a case in point. Sometimes the noise is too much, but here, it’s just right.

Saint Laurent
The single chicest look of the entire season: excellent slouchiness, excellent hues, and an excellent sense of consideration. This ensemble feels like genuine, in-the-know fashion. Well done, Anthony Vaccarello and team!