Lifestyle

Fall Break

By Mark Ellwood

A couple sitting at the pool at Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor luxury resort

Constructed in the mid-19th century as a strategic fort guarding Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, Mamula Island has been reimagined as a 32-room luxury resort accessible by boat or helicopter. Photo by Rebeca Hope; courtesy of Mamula.

Summer in the Med? It’s no longer a slam dunk. Maybe it’s the temperature: In July last summer, southern Europe sweltered in astronomically high Celsius readings, courtesy of the Cerberus heatwave. Maybe it’s the congestion: Italy alone saw a 13-percent rise in registered tourist arrivals in 2023, versus 2022, already itself a banner year. Maybe it’s the prices: per hospitality analytics firm Smith Travel Research, average rates for hotels in France in July last year were a staggering 87 percent higher than pre-Covid levels. Maybe it’s all that and more. Here, we offer four ways to stretch out summer a little longer without compromising on quality.


Montenegro

Archway with a view of Mamula Island through the center

Mamula Island, located off the coast of Montenegro. Photo by Mark Anthony Fox; courtesy of Mamula

AKA: Secret Croatia
Autumn temps: Upper 70s, with waters still warm enough to swim and snorkel
Ideal for: Maxxed-out Med-lovers keen for a quieter corner
Where to stay: Mamula is an extraordinary private island just off Montenegro’s coast, and once home to an Austro-Hungarian fortress. It underwent a radical reimagining as a wellness-focused hideout under its new owner, Samih Sawiris, the billionaire behind global luxury hotel brand The Chedi.
What to do: The center of life here is the Bay of Kotor, better known as Boka Bay, a dramatic, fjord-like natural harbor. Rent a boat to dawdle on its waters, mooring at the postcard-pretty villages that dot its edges.
Insider tip: Head to the vineyards beyond Boka Bay, most of them still family-owned and-operated. The best vintages are the reds, crisper than the fruitier Italian options made from grapes grown across the water, where the climate is markedly warmer.

Aerial view of Mamula Island

Arrive to Mamula by air or sea. Courtesy of Mamula.

 



Mallorca

View of pool with tall greenery at Grand Hotel Son Net

Son Net a standout, 31-room makeover of an old finca in the hills near Puigpunyent, is the place to book on Mallorca. Photo by Salva Lopez; courtesy of Son Net.

AKA: Tuscany’s doppelgänger
Autumn temps: Upper 70s, but cool enough for day-long hikes
Ideal for: Outdoorsy luxe-seekers
Where to stay: Son Net is the standout, 31-room makeover of an old finca in the hills near Puigpunyent that reopened last year. Book the two-bedroom Pool Cottage House and get a treatment at the just-opened subterranean spa carved into the cliff face.
What to do: The rolling, Tuscan-esque hills of the island’s interior have made it an ideal place for Tour de France pros to practice off-season, and you can follow their lead (even on an e-bike). Try the picturesque Cap de Formentor route or hike the Camí dels Pintors (Artists’ Walk), between Sóller and Deià. Didn’t bring any spandex? Don’t worry: The homegrown cycling Parietti label can outfit you at its concept store in Palma.
Insider tip: After a meal, try a snifter of Flor d’Ametlla, the local tipple, a mild digestif made from almonds.

Bathroom with golden tub at Grand Hotel Son Net

A grand tub, perfect for soaking off the day’s adventures around the island. Photo by Salva Lopez; courtesy of Son Net.

 



Amalfi Coast

Aerial view of the Borgo Santandrea beach area with beach chairs and umbrellas

Borgo Santandrea is a no-expense-spared reboot of a longtime hotel. Photo by Enzo Rando; courtesy of Borgo Santandrea.

AKA: The only time to enjoy Amalfi
Autumn temps: Upper 70s and sunny
Ideal for: Anyone smart enough to steer clear in summer
Where to stay: With its 45 rooms and suites, the three-year-old Borgo Santandrea is a no-expense-spared reboot of a longtime hotel, with midcentury décor nodding to Gio Ponti. Don’t miss jaw-dropping views at breakfast on the jasmine-wreathed terrace.
What to do: Other than chartering a boat for a day trip to Ischia—the more Italian, less overrun alternative to Capri—it’s worth a trip to Tramonti, a village on the upper part of the coast. Fall is also the time to pick chestnuts and forage for mushrooms.
Insider tip: Il Pirata in Praiano has been a sceney but low-key spot since the dolce vita days; be sure to try the signature linguine alla Nerano, with fried zucchini and basil. And stop at the ice cream cart on the Valico di Chiunzi to try lemon sorbet made from the region’s prized Sfusato Amalfitano.

Aerial view of Borgo Santandrea hotel

Don’t miss jaw-dropping views at breakfast on the jasmine-wreathed terrace of Borgo Santandrea. Photo by Enzo Rando; courtesy of Borgo Santandrea.

 



Coastal Morocco

Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay villa’s on water

Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay, a Moorish-inspired, villa-filled hideout with private pools and its own beach. Courtesy of Banyan Tree.

AKA: The Spanish-Moorish fusion
Autumn temps: From the 60s to the 80s, tempered by a Mediterranean breeze
Ideal for: St Barths–cravers in hurricane season
Where to stay: Until Marrakech’s Royal Mansour opens its first beach outpost— rumored for 2025—stay at the Banyan Tree Tamouda Bay, a Moorish-inspired, villa-filled hideout with private pools and its own beach.
What to do: Seventeen miles north of Tamouda Bay, you’ll find the promontory overlooking Gibraltar: The city that occupies it, Ceuta, is still part of
Spain. Make sure to bring your passport, some Euros, and plan for a tapas meal or two.
Insider tip: Zip around to the Atlantic coast—60 miles’ or so drive—to Cap Spartel, where the water is wilder and the landscape dramatic; the mythical Caves of Hercules are part of the cliff complex here. Stop for a salt-crusted fish lunch on the patio at Le Mirage hotel overlooking the ocean.

 



What to Pack

Ready to Med? Here are some looks to help you prepare for your perfectly timed Mediterranean holiday. And best of all, they’re all available to shop now on BalHarbourShops.com.



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